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FRAGRANCE: LADIES & GENTLEMEN – SCENT MATTERS

FRAGRANCE: LADIES & GENTLEMEN – SCENT MATTERS

Freshly ground coffee, toast or eau sauvage?

Our sense of smell decides who we like and love.
A scent reminds us of places that are important to us.
When it smells like freshly baked bread,
we immediately feel secure. In a bottle
There’s a whole world of perfume. In these days with
of particular importance to our own little private world.

#advertising #independentGMrecommendation #BecauseWeLoveIt

GloriousMe placed a small online order of face masks and a large order of perfume on the day the Corona shutdown was announced. We wouldn’t want to miss the fragrance we love, especially when many other things are not possible. A small piece of elegance and familiarity, an emotional shield for the home office and for staying at any place where face masks are mandatory.

Burnt Toast

The region of our brain where we perceive scents is in close interaction with the parts of the brain where we process emotions and where our memory is located. A scent immediately triggers an emotion – without rational filters. Situations that we perceive as reward and gain are often associated with their respective scent.

Cosmetic companies like Le Labo, Grasse – New York, develop individual fragrances for hotels. The memory of beautiful days and the scent in the rooms of the Pulitzer Hotel in Amsterdam, can be olfactorically recalled at home with the hotel scent. The smell of lightly burnt toast transports us in our thoughts immediately to London. There, the slightly sweet smell of toast aromas in the morning is present in almost every staircase.

The scent of men and women

Al Pacino, in his film role as Lieutenant Colonel Frank Slade, who has gone blind as a result of an injury during military service, succeeds in naming the soap these women used in the morning by its scent when passing a woman. What Al Pacino was able to recognize in the film “The Scent of Women”, only few succeed. A perfume smells slightly different on the skin of each person. Evolutionary genetically controlled, we like the smell of people we are attracted to and vice versa.

Many remain faithful to their aftershave or perfume for many decades – which is not a problem. Perfume classics like Aqua die Genova have lost none of their appeal since Stefano Frecceri composed the perfume for the royal house of Savoy in 1853.

Interestingly enough, when choosing a new perfume, we usually move within a certain fragrance spectrum. The odd fragrance component is added to this, but the basic components of the fragrances we prefer remain relatively constant. An experienced salesperson, faced with the question “I would like to try something new”, is the first person to ask which perfumes one has preferred in the past. From this, with the appropriate knowledge of the composition of these perfumes, a new suggestion can be developed, which is very likely to please.

Of course, this is relatively easy to calculate online with algorithms – it only requires answering a few questions. However, the experience in a stationary store is still important when choosing a new perfume. Retailers are therefore also strongly affected by corona-related closure and the reduction of the shopping experience (keyword: shopping exfearience, the fear and stress associated with physical shopping instead of a pleasant positive experience).

The success formula of a perfume

Each perfume is based on a formula, usually patented, which describes the exact composition of the individual components that make up the perfume. Nearly all perfumes consist of a mixture of alcohol, essential oils, mostly of plant origin, and synthetically produced fragrances. A distinction is made between top note, heart note and base note. One of GloriousMe’s favorite perfumes is Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion from Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums. The notes of the perfume contain:

HEADNOTE

Cloves, raspberry, rose, black currant, cinnamon

HEARTNOTE

Patchouli, sandalwood, incense

BASIC NOTE

ambergris, benzoin, musk

The proportions of the components and the question of which of the ingredients in the perfume mix is made up of synthetic scent molecules and which is made up of natural ingredients remains the secret of the perfumer and the chemist who defined the formula. Since the extraction of most essential oils is very expensive and subject to the usual risks of agriculture and global supply chains, price is a certain indicator, although not sufficient proof of the proportion of natural ingredients.

A perfume made exclusively from natural ingredients has an immensely high price. For example, it takes 50 kilograms of sandalwood to produce 1 kilogram of sandalwood essential oil. In order to maintain the deep dark wood inside the sandalwood tree in sufficient quantity, the tree must have grown for at least 30 years. The 50 hours for the oil distillation are hardly of importance. In India, formerly one of the main suppliers of sandalwood, sandalwood trees now belong to the endangered tree species.

Even Coco Chanel had to save

According to the company’s history, savings were also necessary in the development of the world’s most famous perfume, Chanel No. 5. The basic composition was first developed by perfumer Ernest Beaux as Bouquet de Catherine for the Russian Tsarina Catherine the Great. When the perfume concept was later presented to Coco Chanel, the proportion of real rose essence already had to be reduced, otherwise the originally developed perfume would have become too expensive even for the luxury market.

It’s not unusual for perfume formulas to be reworked over time. Tastes change and so do the costs of the raw materials. Legislation plays an important role. Because of their high risk of allergies, the proportions of natural oils extracted from cloves, roses and lavender have already been severely limited by EU legislation. Currently there is a recommendation at EU level that provides for far more radical reductions of natural components and could result in a redefinition of many perfume classics.

Percussion, piccolo flute or a deep cello line

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The perfume market offers every nuance: the loud tones, which are massive and remain there for a while even if the wearer has long since left the room or jogging path, and the fine perfume compositions, which appear rather quietly. A good perfume, even a light, fresh scent dominated by citrus notes, for example, has depth and complexity. A noble perfume, even if deliberately heavier scents have been chosen because the perfume is especially meant for the evening, never seems obtrusive.

One hour time for the right decision

The seller in the London shop of Santa Maria della Novella was knowledgeable and determined. I had chosen a perfume – but he refused to sell me the perfume and advised me to leave the shop for an hour with my favourite and second favourite fragrance and ideally go for a walk. As I thought I was sure and wanted to go straight to a museum at the other end of the city, I followed him only reluctantly. He was right. After an hour the number 2 had clearly moved into the favourite position and I left the shop with the perfume I loved from then on.

When trying out a new perfume, at first you mainly notice the top note. Therefore, you should take at least an hour before making a final decision, because only after a while can you perceive the heart and base notes.

Since it is very difficult to distinguish too many scent compositions, the pre-selection of the perfume is important. The shortlist is best smelled on a strip of paper and only the two potfavourites should be sprayed on the wrist, where the pulse can be felt, and then indeed go out into the fresh air for an hour or to a place that is not heavily scented.

The morning is a good time to choose a new fragrance. Our sense of smell, however, is strongly dependent on our overall constitution. On some days it just doesn’t work out, then you stick with your previous favourite or choose another day to discover a new favourite scent.

At the pulse of time and where it is dark and cool

On the pulse of the wrists, behind the earlobes, at the hairline or décolleté – all good places to apply perfume. However, there are different schools here. While one school strictly considers two powerful splashes as the maximum, there is another, equally strict school that considers spray bottles to be the devil’s work. We got to know them in Naples. There we were advised to dribble the perfume into the palms of our hands, rub our hands together and then stroke our hands with quick strokes over the shoulders of the suit. In Naples, of course, tailor-made. Try it out and see what suits you more.

On the other hand, there is a consensus on where to store perfume. Not in the bathroom and possibly still with direct sunlight on the perfume bottle, but in a dark place with a more even, cooler temperature, for example in the bedroom closet.
Let’s hear it for the perfumer

A short briefing is enough for a fragrance specialist to mix an individual fragrance in the laboratory from a wide variety of scent molecules of synthetic and natural nature and give it a name like Berlin or Max Mustermann.

Just like top musicians, however, there are outstanding perfumers who use their experience and skill to develop perfumes that inspire people all over the world and over many years. If you look at the names behind the top perfumes of the big, traditional perfume houses, you will always come across a few names. GloriousMe appreciates their skills and would not start the day without perfume. A little luxury in the current world, which we also understand as applause for these experts in their field.

And in case you’re wondering which fragrance is currently enveloping GloriousMe: Club Water of Viennese Blood. The perfume contains: neroli, angelica root, frankincense, banana leaf, galban resin, nettle, ivy, smoked wood, gurjum and wild pistachio. Who could resist with this mixture? Discovered in an English magazine, tested in a perfumery in Zurich and just reordered in Vienna. And what is your favourite perfume?

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